March 15th, 2010 | Favorite Things About The Cay
I spent my first night in Turks and Caicos in Providenciales (Provo). The last time I visited, I went straight to Ambergris Cay — an amazing experience, given the contrast between my home in Baltimore, Md. (just think of the HBO series āThe Wireā), and the Turks and Caicos Sporting Club (a place for which there is no comparison). This time however, I wanted an opportunity to experience the main island — a vacation mecca that has recently swelled with tourists (they recently filmed an episode of āReal Housewives of Orange Countyā at The Conch Shack, a popular watering hole in Provo).
Julien, from the Turks and Caicos Sporting Club, was waiting for me when I cleared customs, and took me directly to my hotel, The Royal West Indies on Grace Bay. There is nothing more reassuring than wading through a sea of eager taxi drivers and seeing someone with a Turks and Caicos Sporting Club sign in their hand, someone who knows you, who is there for you, someone you can trust. As soon as I stepped into Julienās car, I was on vacation. And when I checked into my room, changed into my shorts and stepped out onto Grace Bay, I could feel the weight of the world slipping off my shoulders, I was happy and relaxed.
Iāve never been on Grace Bay before and I had no idea where to go ā I was in search of a cold beer. I had two choices, turn right on the beach or turn left on the beach. (I wish my choices were as simple back home.) Realizing it didnāt matter, I turned right and started walking. Before long I spotted a cluster of buildings that housed a bar, a small restaurant called Flamingos Cafe, and a couple of novelty shops. There was a local family eating lunch and dancing salsa — it looked like a good spot. I grabbed a beer (Presidente) at the bar, walked over to the railing and looked out over the water. I wasnāt standing there five minutes before two Canadian contractors, Frank and Sebastian, asked me to join them. I always judge a place by how friendly the locals are; so far this place was getting high scores. We talked about the Olympic wins in hockey and curling, and life in Provo. I travel a lot alone and it is always nice when you find good people to talk to.
There were another group of guys around the corner from us obscured by post holding up the roof. As I walked to the bar to get a second beer, I glanced over and recognized Todd and Tucker, two of the best fishing guides on Ambergris Cay. What are the odds? Iāve been in the Turks for about a half hour, randomly walked up to one of a large number of possible bars in the area, and run into people I know. First of all I donāt know very many people here and secondly these guys live on the Cay, not in Provo. It was clearly a good sign.
They were just as surprised to see me. After swapping stories, drinking too many beers (if there is such a number when you are on Grace Bay) and getting advised on some good nightspots, we said our goodbyes. We knew that in a couple of days weād be angling for bonefish and groupers together on the Cay. They recommended Danny Buoys, it was a favorite with the locals that attracted a good deal of tourists; it sounded like the perfect mix for me. It was Karaoke night and Todd and Tucker guaranteed it would be interesting. I am not going to get into all the details of the 6- hours of fun I had at Danny Buoys, just suffice it to say that people are very friendly in Provo. I entered the bar feeling like a foreigner and left feeling like a local. Not only that but I was invited by some new friends to visit the Casa Blanca casino where I won $150 bucks. Not a bad way to end the night. My success was not due to my skills as a card player, but because I had the good sense to leave before I lost it all back.
If there was a perfect first night in the Turks, this was it. The next morning I walked on the beach, swung by the Conch Shack for lunch (the fritters and the rum punch are a must-do) and made it to the airport by 1 p.m. for my flight to the Cay. If I had never experienced Ambergris Cay before, I probably would have wanted to stay in Provo. But once you have experienced the Cay you are spoiled. Itās like having Grace Bay and the entire island experience all to yourself. Itās like being on a private island; wait, it is a private island ā exactly.
-Eric Vohr
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